Suit Canvassing: What You Need To Know

Hey,

Wanna see what I’ve got beneath my jacket?

Well, technically, inside my jacket. But I doubt that’d pique your curiosity as much. Who knows.

I’m talking about canvassing today — or lack thereof.

Canvassing is what separates the Brits from the Italians. The Boss’s from the Brunello’s (though I hear they’re both fused). The men from the boys.

What Is It?

Think of canvassing as your jacket’s inner lining — because that’s what it is. It adds structure and weight to your jacket, which affects the way it drapes (or hangs). It’s typically made of a blend of horsehair and linen.

In my opinion, it’s the same thing that stands between man and machine: a soul. But let’s not speak ill of the many Italian brands who choose to go without — especially after the passing of their dear padre.

Let’s take you through the four different types.

1. Fully Floating Canvas ✅
   The connoisseur’s choice. And the groom’s only choice.

   Illustrated above by Dylan

A full canvas extends all the way down your jacket’s front — from the shoulder, down to the chest piece, and beyond, to the quarters. You can feel it if you pinch, pull, and rub the bottom of your jacket with your forefinger and thumb.

It’s sewn and shaped into place so it forms to your body over time. It adds a whole load of structure and weight, too, meaning it moulds more accurately to your shape. Because of this, it also increases longevity.

A fully floating canvas is for those edging towards having a bespoke suit made further down the line. It’ll definitely add a Savile Row quality to your garms.

2. Half Canvas ✅
   All form, no frills

A half canvassed jacket — as the name suggests — is lighter and less structured than a fully canvassed jacket. Not to say it doesn’t have its place. Many choose a half canvas jacket when warmer weather is a factor, or they just want to chuck it over the back of their office chair and get on with their day.

The canvassing usually finishes just beneath the chest piece here. Give it a pinch. You’ll feel it.

3. Fused ❌
   Sartorial blasphemy

It can cover the shoulder and chest piece of your jacket, or it can extend the whole way down. But a fused canvas connotes that it’s been glued in. Glue has no place in tailoring. It’s a lifeless shortcut that undermines a noble art form (and it’s used by a surprising amount of known brands). The glue forms bubbles under steam, rain, and spotlight — and we wouldn’t want that now, would we?

4. No Canvassing ✅
   Travelling light? Welcome to Napoli.

I’ve pulled the wool over your eyes with this one. It’s not really a type of canvassing — it’s the absence of it. It’s lighter, more casual, and rugged.

It’s everything you need to escape the heat and, in some cases, pomposity of more traditional suiting. Capiche?

We offer three choices of canvassing. Fused? We don’t touch it. Nor should you.

Come check out the difference in our studio.

Half canvas comes as standard, priced from £950 for a full suit, or £745 for a standalone jacket. Full canvas comes in at around 20% more.

Your first order over £950 also comes with a complimentary made to measure shirt.

Big hugs,

Jon